Custom Knitting Services - KOCO Hand-Knitted Manufacturing

Hand-Knitted Garment Manufacturing
Expertly Crafted for Orders Up to 1000+

Design and Development: Hand-Knitted Garments Brought to Life

The Heart of Our Work

Every garment begins with a conversation. Designers show us different forms of inspiration: some provide full technical packs (which by the way we often do not need), others bring sketches, reference photos, or a vintage piece they would like to reinterpret. Whatever form the idea arrives in, it is translated into the specific language of handknitting.

This translation is what sets KOCO apart. Most designers do not have experience with handknitting techniques. Guidance, information and support is provided on what is possible, with clear explanations of how stitch choice and yarn type will impact the design. When KOCO and the designer begin a project, everyone discusses the details clearly at the start such as the design idea, yarn, size range, timeline, and what is technically possible.
Because these things are agreed at the beginning, there are no surprises or confusion later. Both KOCO and the designer understand the same plan for how the garment will be developed, knitted, and finished.

The process is inherently sustainable. Because garments are made entirely by hand, they require no electricity, no industrial washing, and no chemical finishing. The environmental impact of production is minimal. This is not stated as a marketing claim, but as a natural result of how handknitting works. When a garment is knitted by hand, it does not require power, machines, or any water or chemical finishing after it is made. The knitters work in buildings with natural light. Garments are made completely by hand and finished by hand. The only energy involved is human energy.

From Sketch to Swatch

Once the concept is clear, swatching begins. A swatch is a hand-knitted piece of fabric that shows how yarn, tension, and stitch pattern combine. This step is essential because it allows both designer and knitter to see how the garment will behave before moving into full sampling. It can reveal whether a stitch has the right drape, whether a yarn feels too heavy or light, or whether any adjustments are needed.

A stitch library of more than 300 examples is available on our website, ranging from knit and purl textures through to lace, cables, and colourwork. Designers can begin by browsing existing swatches or request a custom adaptation. If there is uncertainty about the best choice, recommendations are made and test samples knitted to compare side by side. This process ensures the fabric chosen is not only visually striking but also practical for the garment type, avoiding costly surprises later.

Material choice at this stage also shapes the garment’s environmental footprint. The type of yarn used in a garment has the greatest influence on its total carbon emissions. At KOCO, almost all work is done with natural fibres. Designers typically choose wools, cottons, mohairs, or silks. These materials come from nature and can return to nature at the end of their life. They are renewable and, when untreated, biodegradable.

In the fashion industry as a whole, most emissions come from synthetic fibres such as polyester and acrylic. These fibres are made from oil and gas. Making one kilogram of polyester fibre produces between nine and fifteen kilograms of carbon dioxide. Even a small amount of polyester changes the environmental picture. In many machine-knitted garments, polyester thread is used for seams and hems. This thread usually weighs between fifteen and twenty grams in a jumper but can add about a quarter of a kilogram of carbon emissions to each garment. A KOCO jumper does not contain polyester thread or synthetic additions. Our seams are sewn from the same yarn used in the garment.

When natural fibres such as wool, cotton, silk, or mohair are chosen, and combined with KOCO’s low-impact making process, the total emissions of garments remain very small. This is what happens with every KOCO project: the process is built around simple, practical actions that keep energy use close to zero and materials as pure as possible.

Refining the Details

With the swatch confirmed, the garment moves into sampling. This is where the finer details are defined. Necklines, sleeve shapes, proportions, trims, and finishing methods are tested and refined until they match the designer’s intent. At this stage, even small changes such as a adjustment in sleeve width or a different cast-off technique can make a visible difference to the overall finish.

Every sample is knitted by artisans in India who bring both technical mastery and attention to detail to the work. Progress is documented with photos, videos, and measurements so designers can review at each milestone rather than waiting until the end. Feedback is gathered and applied systematically, and if multiple samples are required, all changes are tracked to ensure accuracy. This stage reduces risk, saves time, and gives complete confidence before scaling to production.

“We bring order and clarity to a tradition that has often been treated casually. That order allows designers to take hand knitting seriously.” — Danielle Chiel, Founder of KOCO Knitting From Sketch to Swatch.

From First Idea to Finished Garment

Design and development does not happen in a single leap. It unfolds in a sequence of clear stages, each one building on the last. By making the process transparent, designers gain confidence that garments will be delivered exactly as intended.

Step One: Initial Discussion

Every project begins with a conversation. Designers bring what they have. It may be a full sketchbook with technical drawings, a single image from a magazine or runway archive, or even a loosely defined idea described in words. Sometimes it is a sleeve imagined in one texture, a collar drawn from another reference, and a silhouette that is still only taking shape.

At this stage, no detail is too small to mention. A phrase such as “I want it to feel like ……..” can influence stitch choice. A preference for lightness might point towards mohair or alpaca, while firmness might suggest cotton or wool. Practical considerations are also discussed early on: yarn sourcing, sizing, timelines, and quantities. By the end of this stage, there is clarity about what is possible and how the project will move forward.

Step Two: Pattern Writing

This is the foundation of everything KOCO does. Every garment is translated into a written pattern before any knitting begins. These patterns are not rough notes. They are detailed, row-by-row, stitch-by-stitch instructions written separately for each stitch and each size.

Pattern writing is what distinguishes KOCO’s approach from most commercial handknit production. Without patterns, garments vary in size and finish. With patterns, they become repeatable, consistent, and dependable. Pattern writers calculate stitch counts, shape curves, and balance proportions so that garments hold their form across all sizes. This system allows collections to be produced and delivered without surprises.

As Danielle often says: “Patterns are our safety net. They guarantee that every knitter produces the same result. It is what makes our system strong and why designers trust us.”

Step Three: Sampling

The first garment is always produced as a sample. It is knitted by a single artisan from start to finish, ensuring coherence and attention to detail. The sample is photographed and measured carefully, and adjustments are made if needed. The neckline may need to sit higher, the sleeves may require more ease, or the finishing may need refining. The goal is not instant perfection but refinement until the garment fully matches the design vision.

Designers may review the sample in whichever way works best. Either in person, by post, or digitally through detailed images and measurements. Only after approval is given does the project move forward to production.

Step Four: Production

Once the sample is signed off, the order is divided among knitters. Even for production, our routine remains the same: one knitter, one garment. Each artisan takes responsibility for the entire piece, from cast-on to final finishing. Supervisors oversee progress, checking measurements at defined points to ensure consistency.

Before leaving India, garments are photographed and logged. This provides complete transparency so designers know exactly what has been made and what is on its way. With quality control checks built into every stage, the transition from first idea to finished garment is smooth, reliable, and true to the approved sample.

Collaborative Design Support

For many brands and designers, developing handknits is unfamiliar territory. Without prior experience, the process can feel uncertain. KOCO Knitting bridges that gap by offering ongoing support throughout the process. Designers work with partners who ensure that creative intent and technical execution stay aligned at every stage.

Support begins early. If there is uncertainty about yarn choices, stitch selection, or garment feasibility, clear advice and swatches are provided to illustrate options. The stitch library and yarn knowledge act as practical tools, helping designers make decisions that are both creative and workable in production.

During sampling, support remains available to discuss adjustments in real time. Designers can request changes to proportions, finishing, or fit, and the team quickly tests and reports back. This flexibility avoids delays and ensures that no design detail is lost in translation.

In production, collaboration continues through transparent updates. Progress is tracked with photographs, videos, and supervisor notes, so designers see exactly how their garments are developing. If questions arise, the team responds promptly, reducing uncertainty and keeping projects on schedule.

Above all, this support means designers never have to work alone. KOCO Knitting becomes an extension of the design team—translating ideas into handknits, solving technical challenges, and making sure that the final garment is both beautiful and dependable.

Practical Matters That Shape Every Project

Designers rarely doubt that handknitted garments can look extraordinary. What is needed are clear answers to practical concerns—the details that determine whether a project runs smoothly from start to finish.

Feature	What sets Koco apart
Sizing	KOCO uses its own sizing, developed specifically for handknits. Garments are not forced into cut-and-sew measurements. Instead, sizes are provided that suit the natural character of handknitted fabric while ensuring garments fit comfortably and consistently.
Consistency	Consistency is built into the system. Every size has its own written pattern. Supervisors monitor progress as garments are knitted, checking against measurements and stitch counts. Each finished piece is measured and photographed before leaving India, providing complete visibility.
Timelines	Timelines are realistic and communicated from the outset. A single prototype may take five to six weeks, while larger orders can require eight to fourteen weeks depending on complexity and quantity. Designers always know what to expect and can plan collections with confidence.
Quantities	Orders can begin small with a single sample or an order of twenty garments. At the same time, the system is built to handle scale, with larger orders of several hundred or even up to a thousand pieces also achievable. This flexibility allows designers to grow collections at their own pace.

Who Works With KOCO

Fashion Designers

Many designers have not previously used hand knitting in their collections. They may begin with a single statement piece. Over time, they may expand to a capsule of several garments. The transition is made easy, reliable, and repeatable.

Boutique Labels

Smaller brands often struggle with minimum order requirements from machine knit factories. KOCO Knitting offers an alternative. An order of twenty cardigans, for example, can be developed with care and delivered with the same quality controls as a larger project. A single garment for a lookbook or showroom can also be easily produced.

Yarn Producers and Designers

Yarn companies approach KOCO when they need garments that demonstrate their yarn. Samples are knitted that show drape, stitch definition, and versatility. These garments become tools for marketing and sales.

Environmentally Conscious Brands

For brands concerned with sustainability, KOCO offers genuine credentials built into the production process itself. Garments are made without electricity or machines. There are no knitting machines, no lighting systems, no powered finishing equipment. Each piece is created in naturally lit buildings by artisans who walk to work, using only needles and their hands.

At KOCO, the situation is very different from conventional garment production. The way of working removes nearly all of the energy and water use that comes from making garments. Every woman who works with KOCO walks to work. There are no engines, no lighting machines, and no knitting machines using power. Each knitter makes a garment from start to finish using yarn that has already been cleaned and prepared at the mill. Once the garment is finished, it is checked and packed. There is no washing stage, no steam pressing, and no chemical treatment. The garment leaves India exactly as it was knitted.

Because knitting is done by hand, there is no industrial washing stage. Machine-knitted garments require washing after production to remove oils and lubricants used to keep the machines running smoothly. The garment is then softened and pressed to create a smooth surface. These washing and finishing stages often use hot water, detergents, and chemical softeners. Studies that measure the environmental impact of these steps show that they can add between five and eight kilograms of carbon emissions for every kilogram of garment made. KOCO’s process removes that entire part of the footprint because it is not used at all.

KOCO hand-knitted garments skip this entire second stage. Because knitting is done by hand, the yarn does not need industrial lubricants. Once the garment is complete, there is no need for washing, steaming, or pressing. It is gently shaped by hand and laid flat to dry in the air. There is no heated water, no detergent, and no chemical softener. The process adds no carbon emissions, no effluent, and no waste.

Even with air freight from India to Europe, the total footprint of a KOCO jumper remains lower than a machine-knitted equivalent made closer to market. Garments are shipped on regular passenger flights that would fly whether the parcels were on them or not. A typical KOCO jumper weighing 700 grams adds approximately four kilograms of carbon emissions when shipped from India to London. This is equal to or less than the emissions saved by making the jumper entirely by hand without electricity or industrial washing. The real difference lies in how the garment is made, not where it travels from.

Another area where the process differs is waste. In cut-and-sew manufacturing, large pieces of fabric are cut into shapes and then stitched together. The leftover fabric becomes waste. In knitting, and especially in hand knitting, the garment is built stitch by stitch into its exact shape. There are no cut-offs. Every strand of yarn is used. If a mistake is made, the stitches are undone and re-knitted. Nothing is thrown away.

Natural fibres mean garments are biodegradable at end of life. Environmental responsibility is built into every aspect of production. It is the fundamental nature of handknitting, not an added feature. Sustainability at KOCO is therefore not about following a policy or marketing trend. It is simply about how things are made. The absence of electricity, water, and chemicals in the work means that the environmental impact is very small.

Stage / Factor	Machine-knitted 100% Wool Jumper	KOCO Hand-knitted 100% Wool Jumper	Notes & Explanations
Yarn scouring and spinning (at mill)	3 – 5 kg	3 – 5 kg	Both use cleaned and spun yarn from the same mills.
Electricity for knitting	2 – 5 kg	0	Machine knitting requires electricity. KOCO knitting uses none.
Industrial washing and chemical finishing	5 – 8 kg	0	Machine knits are washed and pressed with steam. KOCO handknits are not.
Polyester sewing thread	0.25 kg	0	Machine knits use polyester thread. KOCO garments do not.
Fibre transport (Australia → spinner)	0.14 – 0.36 kg (Italy) 0.08 – 0.32 kg (India)	0.08 – 0.32 kg (India)	India is closer, saving 0.1 – 0.2 kg CO₂ per jumper.
Fibre transport (Mohair → spinner)	0.07 – 0.29 kg (Italy)	0.04 – 0.16 kg (India)	India saves about 0.05 – 0.1 kg CO₂ per jumper.
Finished garment transport (India → London by air)	4 kg	4 kg	Regular passenger flights, same impact for both.
Use of synthetic fibres	+10 – 30 kg	Rare	Synthetic fibres come from fossil fuels and add high emissions.
Total from making stage only (excluding fibre)	7 – 13 kg	3 – 5 kg	KOCO avoids electricity, industrial washing, and polyester thread.
Total including air freight	11 – 17 kg	7 – 9 kg	KOCO’s total remains lower even with air shipping.

Contact Our Founder, Danielle Chiel,
About Hand-Knit Manufacturing

At KOCO Knitting, we will guide you through the process
of producing your exceptional knitwear range.

The KOCO Difference

KOCO Knitting stands apart because of the way work is organised, supervised, and scaled. Handknitting alone is not enough. What matters is the system behind it—the processes that ensure every garment is consistent, ethical, and true to the designer’s vision.

Pattern Writing for Every Size: Precision patterns guarantee consistency across all garments.

One Knitter, One Garment: Each artisan is fully responsible for her work, from beginning to end.

Hand Finishing: Seams are sewn by hand. No linking machines are used, preserving the authenticity of the craft.

Centralised Supervision: Work takes place in dedicated buildings with trained supervisors monitoring progress and quality.

Ethical Trade: Women in rural India learn a professional skill, earn fair wages, and support their families through steady work.

Clear Communication: Led by a native English speaker, KOCO ensures accurate communication with Western brands and designers.

Questions Designers Often Ask

Question	Answer
Do I need technical knowledge of handknitting to work with KOCO?	No. Designers do not need handknitting expertise. Whether the concept arrives as a sketch, a reference image, or a description, it is translated into handknitting language. The role is to bridge the gap between design vision and the finished garment.
What kinds of design information do I need to provide to begin?	Work can begin with whatever information is available. Some designers arrive with complete technical packs, while others bring a single drawing or photograph. Even loosely defined ideas can be developed. The more detail shared (references, intended fit, desired yarn qualities) the faster alignment on the first swatch and sample.
Can KOCO help with choosing yarns and stitches?	Yes. We have a stitch library of more than 300 stitches, combined with experience in yarn sourcing, provides a strong starting point. Recommendations are made based on the look and feel desired, and test swatches are provided to compare options. This ensures that both stitch and yarn are visually striking and practical for production.
How long does the design and development process take?	A first prototype typically takes five to six weeks, depending on garment complexity. If adjustments are required, the sample is refined until it meets the design intent. Once approved, production timelines range from eight to fourteen weeks depending on order size and stitch complexity. Clear timelines are agreed at the outset so collections can be planned with confidence.
What happens if I want changes after the first sample?	The sampling stage is designed for refinement. Adjustments to neckline, sleeve shape, proportions, or finishing are all part of the process. Each change is documented with measurements and photographs so there is no ambiguity. Once the revised sample is approved, production moves forward with those adjustments built in.
How does KOCO ensure consistency across multiple garments?	Consistency is built into the system. Each size has a written pattern with row-by-row instructions. Every garment is knitted by one artisan from beginning to end, ensuring responsibility and care. Supervisors monitor progress at defined points, and each finished piece is measured and photographed before shipping. This creates reliable consistency across the entire order.
What order sizes can KOCO handle?	KOCO is flexible. Work can begin with a single sample or a small order of twenty garments. The system is also in place to manage orders of several hundred or even up to a thousand garments. This flexibility allows designers to start small and scale confidently.
Where are KOCO garments produced, and who makes them?	All KOCO garments are handknitted in rural India by teams of highly skilled women artisans. Each artisan is trained to professional standards and earns a fair wage that supports her family and community. Supervisors oversee quality control in dedicated workspaces. Every piece is finished by hand, photographed, and logged before leaving India.
How does handknitting reduce environmental impact compared to machine production?	Hand knitting eliminates the main sources of emissions in garment manufacturing. There is no electricity for knitting machines, no industrial washing with heated water and chemicals, and no powered finishing equipment. A machine-knitted wool jumper typically adds five to eight kilograms of carbon emissions during washing and finishing alone. KOCO garments avoid this entirely because they require no post-production processing. When a KOCO hand-knitted jumper is compared with a similar machine-knitted jumper made from the same 100 percent wool yarn, the difference is clear. The machine-knitted jumper uses electricity for knitting and for washing after knitting. The KOCO jumper does not.
Does air freight offset the environmental benefits?	No. Garments travel on regular passenger flights that would fly regardless. A 700 gram jumper shipped from India to London adds approximately four kilograms of carbon emissions which is equal to or less than the emissions saved by making the garment without electricity or industrial washing. The making process has far greater environmental impact than transport. The small amount of fuel connected with air freight is often outweighed by the large amount of energy saved by hand knitting without electricity or chemicals.
Can KOCO work with sustainable yarns?	Yes. Work proceeds with whatever yarn is chosen. Natural fibres like wool, cotton, silk, and mohair are biodegradable. Even small amounts of synthetic materials like polyester thread (common in machine knits) significantly increase emissions. Producing one kilogram of polyester fibre can create up to fifteen kilograms of carbon dioxide. In a single jumper, fifteen to twenty grams of polyester thread can add about a quarter of a kilogram of emissions. KOCO jumpers do not contain polyester thread, because all seams and finishes are knitted by hand using the same yarn that forms the fabric. This keeps the garment pure in composition and consistent in performance.

Case Studies: Design and Development in Practice

Case Study 1: Boutique Label — Small Order, High Impact

The Challenge: A boutique label wanted to introduce a handknit cardigan as part of a winter capsule. Their usual factories required minimum orders far above what they could commit to.

The KOCO Process: A prototype was developed based on the designer’s sketch, swatches were tested for texture and drape, and a sample was produced for refinement. Once approved, production scaled to an order of twenty garments, with each one photographed and logged for transparency.

The Outcome: The label received a limited run of handknit cardigans that matched their brand aesthetic, delivered on time and to consistent quality. The success of the small order gave them the confidence to expand handknits in their following season.

Case Study 2: Yarn Producer — Showcasing Fibre Potential

The Challenge: A yarn company needed garments to demonstrate the qualities of a new mohair blend at trade shows. They wanted samples that would show drape, stitch definition, and versatility.

The KOCO Process: Working from yarn swatches, patterns were developed for three different garments: a lightweight jumper, a lace-textured wrap, and a cable-knit cardigan. Each piece was hand-finished and photographed for use in marketing materials.

The Outcome: The garments highlighted the yarn’s properties in a way flat swatches could not. The company used them in promotional campaigns and showroom displays, strengthening sales of the new fibre.

Case Study 3: Fashion Designer — First Handknit Collection

The Challenge: A designer known for woven collections wanted to introduce handknits for the first time. With no prior experience, they were concerned about timelines, consistency, and risk.

The KOCO Process: The designer launched their first handknit piece with confidence. The collection sold well, and handknits have since become a recurring part of their seasonal range.

The Outcome: The garments highlighted the yarn’s properties in a way flat swatches could not. The company used them in promotional campaigns and showroom displays, strengthening sales of the new fibre.

Bringing It All Together

Design and development at KOCO Knitting is about precision, organisation, and trust. Ideas are made real through pattern writing, sampling, supervised production, and hand finishing.

The result is not simply a garment. It is a garment that holds its place in a collection, that fits properly, and that carries the weight of skill and care.

“Fashion is full of ideas. Our role is to bring those ideas into form. When a designer sees their sketch transformed into a garment that can be worn, it changes everything. That is the moment when design and development succeed.” — Danielle Chiel

KOCO Knitting's Hand-Knit Services
for Designers and Brands

Hand-Knitted Garment Manufacturing

Expertly Crafted for Orders Up to 1000+

Small Order Custom Hand-Knits

Pattern Writing and Production

Yarn Sourcing
and Supply

Access to Yarns From Around the World

Hand-Knitted Garment ManufacturingExpertly Crafted for Orders Up to 1000+